'Catamaran-ing' the Beagle Channel

After shrugging off the overwhelming sense of ickiness leftover by our visit to the Ushuaia pen, we boarded a nifty catamaran and sailed off to cruise the Beagle Channel. We were lucky again with the weather; bright and warm which brought out all the various and sundry animals looking for a nice bask in the sun.

Penguins were dipping and diving around nice fat albatrosses as we headed for a tiny island covered with what looked like shiny fur coats in big luxurious piles. Sea lions too numerous to count. Mommies, babies and a couple Big Daddies lording over the whole scene, raising up to grunt loudly every now again. It's pretty obvious who rules the roost and we're told that the male sea lions are the original alpha males and have harems and kill the male babies to get rid of the future competition. They take their social standing pretty seriously. A little farther down the channel, we pull up to an island literally covered and roiling with black and white birds. More than just a little Hitchcockian,we have visions of Tippi Hedron stumbling around bolting over the rocks with at least seven of these big boys stuck in her beehive. At first glance the strange birds look exactly like penguins, but they're not. Cormorants. With large black chicks that follow the parents around. All day. They have a slightly bored, yet desperate look on their little bird faces. Probably saying, "But MOM!! I'm starving!!!" 

To end our little journey, the boat pulls up to a lovely little red and white brick lighthouse set against postcard scenery. You can't help but take 12,000 pictures.

Back on the ship, we join the rest of the Seabourners for a Caviar Sail Away party on the top deck. The sun is out, the atmosphere is festive and it is definitely a happy moment as we load up with caviar, grab a flute of champagne and pull away from the Ushuaia dock. Another fun day against the gorgeous, rugged scenery of South America.

Photos at the End of the World

The train at the end of the world and the post office at the end of the world. 

Probably the prettiest post office I've ever seen.

They should opt for "Prettiest Post Office At The End of the World".

Sounds much better.

A little gem called Ushuaia, Argentina

We arrived in busy little Ushuaia, Argentina and parked next to several Antarctic expedition boats and a bustling crab boat that was just a hive of activity. We watched mesmerized as the crab was methodically boxed up, crated and removed. Quite the operation. Not really knowing what to expect, we headed out for "the Train at the End of the World". By now, you should be able to tell that there's a distinct theme going on here. Everyone wants the title of '_____ at the End of the World'. There are currently three towns in the running and it's a regularly disputed claim. Ushuaia is one of them. Although remote, Ushuaia, the capital of Tierra Del Fuego ('land of fire', the island at the bottom of Argentina) has a fun, funky vibe similar to Aspen, Colorado. Even the airports are similar; scary looking and surrounded by mountains. Every plane that comes in causes entire groups to stop what they're doing and look to the sky with big eyes in anticipation of what's coming next. "Is it a go or is it a no???" Wait, wait----ahhhh--yes!!! Touchdown on solid land. Relief!!!

There is a marked alpine tone to the architecture which is charming in its slightly dilapidated shabbiness. Bold bright colors stand out against the mostly overcast skies and there are little overcrowded roads that wind up the mountainside ending in larger hotels. Ushuaia is well known for adventure tourism, but we're not really up to that now. We've been spoiled rotten so we opt for a slightly different journey.

The train at the end of the world is actually the rebuilt 'convict' train from early in the century. Ushuaia was originally built to house a prison full of the country's worst criminals, mostly murderers and it was eventually closed down because the conditions were so totally inhumane. The train carried wood that the convicts would first cut down and then load, leaving a large area in the valley deforested--'The Cemetery' as they called it. Rows and rows of gray stumps as far as the eye can see. Grim. 

The little steam train wound its way through the valley and what with the coffee, wild horses, cushy seats and good company, seemed light years away from its prior history. We hardly felt like criminals at all.

Until we actually got to the prison. If you would have told me that I would be in a jail cell by noon, I wouldn't left my cabin. Thank goodness it was only a short trip. Here we are having a lovely lunch on the back of the boat with Ushuaia and it's scary prison firmly behind us. 

At The End of the World

Here we are toasting Cape Horn and Hornos Island as we watch the little red rescue boat deliver treats to the family that lives on the Cape. Just visible on the upper lefthand corner of the photo is the Cape Horn monument to all the seafarers who lost their lives trying to round the Cape. The huge metal monument is very touching; the cutout image appears as both an albatross in flight and a rough cross.

Rounding the 'Horn'

On Monday, we set out to attempt to round Cape Horn and Hornos Island. Apparently it's a pretty amazing feat of navigation and not many boats actually get the chance to do it, owing to weather and water conditions. Cape Horn marks the southernmost point of South America and extends into Drake Passage, the Antarctic strait connecting the south Atlantic and South Pacific oceans. Storms, strong currents and icebergs make passage extremely hazardous. As it turned out for us, the weather was amazing--sunny and warm and very unique for Cape Horn. At about 5 pm, we went around the tip and it was truly special. The weather was so good, in fact, the boat anchored and some crew went ashore to deliver some treats and supplies to the lone family that lives there, manning the lighthouse and 'keeping' the little island. They took the entire boat's worth of passports in a safe box and had them stamped, giving everyone on board a truly once in a lifetime gift. It was bitterly cold up on deck but blankets were handed out along with hot toddies, gluhveine and champagne and the whole boat, employees and all were out in force, documenting the historic moment and celebrating. All in all, a very festive occasion!

Two Days at Sea

'Fun with Ice'

Here are Jeri and I caressing a nice chunk of the De Agostini glacier in the bar kitchen. Don't say we don't know how to have a good time!!! A couple of boat bound days naturally make one a little squirrelly and any novelty is welcome good entertainment!

Today finds us somewhere off the coast of Argentina socked in by heavy fog and rain headed for Puerto Madryn. We're on our second day at sea moonwalking the pitching, rolling hallways. Internet is spotty at best, infuriating at worst and sometimes there is no communication period. I fear the many sullen, swearing laptop-bearing 'natives' will rise up and pull a "Mutiny On the Bounty" if we don't grab an effective satellite soon. When the internet does work, the halls get very quiet. If you listen very carefully, you can almost make out the frenzied clicking and clacking of keyboards from behind the closed doors. 

So suffice it to say, I post when I can!

Last week; Fabulous Simpson Valley and Aisen

Here's a little typical scenery from Rio Simpson Valley. The area is also called Aisen named so because the explorer who discovered it said, "hey. here's where the ice ends." No kidding. We had a rather hair-raising coach ride through these mountains; the whole bus of passengers was leaning away from the right hand roadside so as not to weight the bus in an ominous direction. Ending up in a little town called Coyhaique which just materialized when we rounded a large mountain, we had a pleasant little stroll through the artisan market and filled up with tourist paraphernalia and ice cream. Our tour continued through the huge valley, green, windy and very deep, finishing with a stop by this waterfall and a cozy local buffet at a lodge. Fresh salmon ceviche on the half shell, empanadas by the boat load, little scrummy lamb kebabs and the ubiquitous Piscos fueled us up for the ride back to the port.