A little gem called Ushuaia, Argentina

We arrived in busy little Ushuaia, Argentina and parked next to several Antarctic expedition boats and a bustling crab boat that was just a hive of activity. We watched mesmerized as the crab was methodically boxed up, crated and removed. Quite the operation. Not really knowing what to expect, we headed out for "the Train at the End of the World". By now, you should be able to tell that there's a distinct theme going on here. Everyone wants the title of '_____ at the End of the World'. There are currently three towns in the running and it's a regularly disputed claim. Ushuaia is one of them. Although remote, Ushuaia, the capital of Tierra Del Fuego ('land of fire', the island at the bottom of Argentina) has a fun, funky vibe similar to Aspen, Colorado. Even the airports are similar; scary looking and surrounded by mountains. Every plane that comes in causes entire groups to stop what they're doing and look to the sky with big eyes in anticipation of what's coming next. "Is it a go or is it a no???" Wait, wait----ahhhh--yes!!! Touchdown on solid land. Relief!!!

There is a marked alpine tone to the architecture which is charming in its slightly dilapidated shabbiness. Bold bright colors stand out against the mostly overcast skies and there are little overcrowded roads that wind up the mountainside ending in larger hotels. Ushuaia is well known for adventure tourism, but we're not really up to that now. We've been spoiled rotten so we opt for a slightly different journey.

The train at the end of the world is actually the rebuilt 'convict' train from early in the century. Ushuaia was originally built to house a prison full of the country's worst criminals, mostly murderers and it was eventually closed down because the conditions were so totally inhumane. The train carried wood that the convicts would first cut down and then load, leaving a large area in the valley deforested--'The Cemetery' as they called it. Rows and rows of gray stumps as far as the eye can see. Grim. 

The little steam train wound its way through the valley and what with the coffee, wild horses, cushy seats and good company, seemed light years away from its prior history. We hardly felt like criminals at all.

Until we actually got to the prison. If you would have told me that I would be in a jail cell by noon, I wouldn't left my cabin. Thank goodness it was only a short trip. Here we are having a lovely lunch on the back of the boat with Ushuaia and it's scary prison firmly behind us.